From The Flexitarian Table by Peter Berley

When I first gave up eating meat, I scoured the kosher delis and dairy restaurants of New York's Upper West and Lower East sides, where generations of Eastern European Jews had setttled, in search of satisfying vegetarian versions of this classic soup.  Here is my take on the staple of my ancestors.  Soy soauce adds an earthy flavor to the broth, standing in for the traditional beef bouillon.

2/3 cup pearl barley

6 cups cold water

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

12 ounces mushrooms, trimmed and thinly sliced (about 3 cups)

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup shredded kale or other dark leafy green

1/2 cup diced peeled carrots

1/2 cup diced celery

1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably naturally brewed

Freshly ground black pepper

In a 4- to 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy pot, combine the barley with the water and bring to a boil over high heat.  Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the barley is tender, 35 to 45 minutes.

While the barley cooks, heat the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the mushrooms, onion, kale, carrots, celery , and salt and cook, stirring occasionally to prevent browning, for 3 to 5 minutes.  Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

When the barley is plumb and tender, stir in the vegetables.  Add the dill and soy sauce and simmer for 3 minutes.  Season the soup generously with black pepper and serve.

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